Get the Natural Look with Woodstock Living Retaining Walls

Woodstock Living Walls…

The structure is achieved by installing galvanized welded wire forms known as Soil Baskets. Each basket is lined with a structural face wrap and geo-synthetic grid per specific engineered drawings. The baskets are backfilled and compacted with clean fill dirt and the face of the wall planted, preferably with native plants.

Benefits of  Woodstock Living Retaining Walls

* Less expensive– The materials are lighter and easier to transport and they take less time to install.

* Superior Earth stabilization—The Soil Basket design is applicable to most slopes that need to be retained. The design requires that the dirt backfill be clean and free of debris and compacted to meet strict design standards. The baskets are made of galvanized steel so, properly installed will outlast any other products. In addition, the vegetated face of the structure will be key to the overall strength of the slope. Consideration should be given to the planting and watering needs of whatever is planted on the face. If near woods, the wall will be naturally seeded by nearby fauna. However, trees should not be allowed to grow out of the face of the wall, as they would jeopardize the structure.

Improves Drainage– The Living Wall will absorb the rainwater and allow it to drain gradually instead of encouraging run off which leads to flooding. 

*Healthy for You, Your Family and Neighbors, and the Earth— The manufacturing, delivery, and installation of Soil Baskets have much less of a carbon footprint than concrete products. Adding a hillside of plants to any area will increase the welfare of the local biome. Making the choice to plant natively on your wall will allow your property to be better integrated into the larger biome. Native perennial wildflowers can be hydro seeded onto the face.
*Natural Beauty– Woodstock Living walls allow you to infuse your retaining wall with shades of green, pops of color from flowers, interesting textures from varied plant shapes and sizes, and even amazing aromas from fragrant plants. You can create a lush vertical garden as a focal point in your landscape.
 

 

 

Are you ready to explore the possibilities for your yard? Reach out today to have one of our living wall specialists come to your site for a free design consultation. We’ll assess your landscape needs and provide options to achieve the perfect look. Don’t settle for boring, high-maintenance concrete retaining walls. Go for the vibrant, eco-friendly solution with living walls! Call us today at 678-593-8546 or email maurercoretainingwalls@gmail.com to get started. DOWNLOAD PDF ABOUT LIVING RETAINING WALLS HERE    

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

    1. What are living retaining walls? Living retaining walls use plants and other natural materials rather than concrete, blocks, or stone to hold back the earth. They are often built in terraced layers using materials like soil, gravel, and plants. The plant roots reinforce the soil structure.
    2. What are the benefits of living retaining walls? Benefits include being more aesthetically pleasing, providing habitat for wildlife, handling erosion better, and being easier to install than standard retaining walls. They can also be self-repairing as the plants continue to grow and stabilize the soil.
    3. What types of plants are used in living retaining walls? Some common plants used are sedum, ivy, vinca minor, juniper, liriope, and ornamental grasses. Trees and shrubs can also be incorporated. Choose plants that can tolerate sunlight, moisture, and soil conditions.
    4. How long do living retaining walls last? Properly built living retaining walls can last for decades. They may need occasional maintenance like pruning back overgrown vegetation or replanting bare areas, but are quite durable. The vegetation continues stabilizing the soil over time.
    5. What kind of soil is best for a living retaining wall? Well-drained soils with a mixture of sand, silt, and gravel work best. Heavier clay soils take longer for the roots to penetrate and reinforce. Incorporate organic compost to improve drainage in clay soils before building the wall.
    6. How steep can the slope be for a living retaining wall? Slopes up to about 45-60 degrees can be retained with living walls. Proper erosion control blankets, terracing, and drainage are especially important on steeper slopes. Geogrids may also help reinforce very steep sections.
  • Retaining walls are relatively rigid walls used for supporting soil laterally so that it can be retained at different levels on the two sides. Retaining walls are structures designed to restrain soil to a slope that it would not naturally keep to (typically a steep, near-vertical or vertical slope). They are used to bound soils between two different elevations often in areas of terrain possessing undesirable slopes or in areas where the landscape needs to be shaped severely and engineered for more specific purposes like hillside farming or roadway overpasses. A retaining wall that retains soil on the backside and water on the frontside is called a seawall or a bulkhead.

    A retaining wall is designed to hold in place a mass of earth or the like, such as the edge of a terrace or excavation. The structure is constructed to resist the lateral pressure of soil when there is a desired change in ground elevation that exceeds the angle of repose of the soil.

    A basement wall is thus one kind of retaining wall; however, the term usually refers to a cantilever retaining wall, which is a freestanding structure without lateral support at its top. These are cantilevered from a footing and rise above the grade on one side to retain a higher level grade on the opposite side. The walls must resist the lateral pressures generated by loose soils or, in some cases, water pressures.

    Every retaining wall supports a “wedge” of soil. The wedge is defined as the soil which extends beyond the failure plane of the soil type present at the wall site, and can be calculated once the soil friction angle is known. As the setback of the wall increases, the size of the sliding wedge is reduced. This reduction lowers the pressure on the retaining wall.

    The most important consideration in proper design and installation of retaining walls is to recognize and counteract the tendency of the retained material to move downslope due to gravity. This creates lateral earth pressure behind the wall which depends on the angle of internal friction (phi) and the cohesive strength (c) of the retained material, as well as the direction and magnitude of movement the retaining structure undergoes.

    Lateral earth pressures are zero at the top of the wall and – in homogeneous ground – increase proportionally to a maximum value at the lowest depth. Earth pressures will push the wall forward or overturn it if not properly addressed. Also, any groundwater behind the wall that is not dissipated by a drainage system causes hydrostatic pressure on the wall. The total pressure or thrust may be assumed to act at one-third from the lowest depth for lengthwise stretches of uniform height.

    It is important to have proper drainage behind the wall in order to limit the pressure to the wall’s design value. Drainage materials will reduce or eliminate the hydrostatic pressure and improve the stability of the material behind the wall. Drystone retaining walls are normally self-draining.

    As an example, the International Building Code requires retaining walls to be designed to ensure stability against overturning, sliding, excessive foundation pressure and water uplift; and that they be designed for a safety factor of 1.5 against lateral sliding and overturning.

    Gravity walls depend on their mass (stone, concrete or other heavy material) to resist pressure from behind and may have a ‘batter’ setback to improve stability by leaning back toward the retained soil. For short landscaping walls, they are often made from mortarless stone or segmental concrete units (masonry units). Dry-stacked gravity walls are somewhat flexible and do not require a rigid footing.

    Earlier in the 20th century, taller retaining walls were often gravity walls made from large masses of concrete or stone. Today, taller retaining walls are increasingly built as composite gravity walls such as: geosynthetics such as geocell cellular confinement earth retention or with precast facing; gabions (stacked steel wire baskets filled with rocks); crib walls (cells built up log cabin style from precast concrete or timber and filled with granular material).

    Cantilevered retaining walls are made from an internal stem of steel-reinforced, cast-in-place concrete or mortared masonry (often in the shape of an inverted T). These walls cantilever loads (like a beam) to a large, structural footing, converting horizontal pressures from behind the wall to vertical pressures on the ground below. Sometimes cantilevered walls are buttressed on the front, or include a counterfort on the back, to improve their strength resisting high loads. Buttresses are short wing walls at right angles to the main trend of the wall. These walls require rigid concrete footings below seasonal frost depth. This type of wall uses much less material than a traditional gravity wall.

    Diaphragm walls are a type of retaining walls that are very stiff and generally watertight. Diaphragm walls are expensive walls, but they save time and space, and hence are used in urban constructions.

    Sheet pile retaining walls are usually used in soft soil and tight spaces. Sheet pile walls are driven into the ground and are composed of a variety of material including steel, vinyl, aluminum, fiberglass or wood planks. For a quick estimate the material is usually driven 1/3 above ground, 2/3 below ground, but this may be altered depending on the environment. Taller sheet pile walls will need a tie-back anchor, or “dead-man” placed in the soil a distance behind the face of the wall, that is tied to the wall, usually by a cable or a rod. Anchors are then placed behind the potential failure plane in the soil.

    Bored pile retaining walls are built by assembling a sequence of bored piles, followed by excavating away the excess soil. Depending on the project, the bored pile retaining wall may include a series of earth anchors, reinforcing beams, soil improvement operations and shotcrete reinforcement layer. This construction technique tends to be employed in scenarios where sheet piling is a valid construction solution, but where the vibration or noise levels generated by a pile driver are not acceptable.

    An anchored retaining wall can be constructed in any of the aforementioned styles but also includes additional strength using cables or other stays anchored in the rock or soil behind it. Usually driven into the material with boring, anchors are then expanded at the end of the cable, either by mechanical means or often by injecting pressurized concrete, which expands to form a bulb in the soil. Technically complex, this method is very useful where high loads are expected, or where the wall itself has to be slender and would otherwise be too weak.

    Soil nailing is a technique in which soil slopes, excavations or retaining walls are reinforced by the insertion of relatively slender elements – normally steel reinforcing bars. The bars are usually installed into a pre-drilled hole and then grouted into place or drilled and grouted simultaneously. They are usually installed untensioned at a slight downward inclination. A rigid or flexible facing (often sprayed concrete) or isolated soil nail heads may be used at the surface.

    A number of systems exist that do not consist of just the wall, but reduce the earth pressure acting directly on the wall. These are usually used in combination with one of the other wall types, though some may only use it as facing, i.e., for visual purposes.

    This type of soil strengthening, often also used without an outside wall, consists of wire mesh “boxes”, which are filled with roughly cut stone or other material. The mesh cages reduce some internal movement and forces, and also reduce erosive forces. Gabion walls are free-draining retaining structures and as such are often built in locations where ground water is present. However, management and control of the ground water in and around all retaining walls is important.

    Mechanically stabilized earth, also called MSE, is soil constructed with artificial reinforcing via layered horizontal mats (geosynthetics) fixed at their ends. These mats provide added internal shear resistance beyond that of simple gravity wall structures. Other options include steel straps, also layered. This type of soil strengthening usually needs outer facing walls (S.R.W.’s – Segmental Retaining Walls) to affix the layers to and vice versa.

    The wall face is often of precast concrete units that can tolerate some differential movement. The reinforced soil’s mass, along with the facing, then acts as an improved gravity wall. The reinforced mass must be built large enough to retain the pressures from the soil behind it. Gravity walls usually must be a minimum of 50 to 60 percent as deep or thick as the height of the wall, and may have to be larger if there is a slope or surcharge on the wall.

    Cellular confinement systems (geocells) are also used for steep earth stabilization in gravity and reinforced retaining walls with geogrids. Geocell retaining walls are structurally stable under self- weight and externally imposed loads, while the flexibility of the structure offers very high seismic resistance. The outer fascia cells of the wall can be planted with vegetation to create a green wall.